Category: Architecture

Alicante. A Spanish City of Contrasts.

12/11/2017

When still in the U.S., planning my escape to Europe, I pinpointed three Spanish cities to consider as places to live. They were Barcelona, Valencia, and Alicante. All three were nestled along the Mediterranean coast with its abundant sunshine and mild winters. All three offered cultural experiences, were graced with historic architecture, and possessed modern airports.

My flight to Europe landed in Barcelona, so that was the city I explored first. It was a fascinating metropolis with much to offer, but it didn't feel like “home.”

Barcelona's gorgeous cityscape.

Then I took the train to Valencia. When I disembarked at the magnificent Estació del Nord (North train station) I immediately fell in love with the city. I never made it to Alicante.

Valencia's Estació del Nord train station.

I felt I owed it to myself to at least visit Alicante to see if I had missed out on something special. A friend had entered her Aussies in a dog show in that city, and that was the nudge I needed to make the trip.
I arrived by train several days before the dog show so I'd have time to explore and take photos of the city. Alicante's train station is thoroughly modern, in contrast to Valencia's Estació del Nord.

Alicante's railway station.

I walked from the train station to my AirBnB apartment, following Google Maps on my phone. Because I'm directionally impaired even with a map, I took a wrong turn and found myself on San Francisco Street, which is also known as “Mushroom Street.”

I was quite surprised by San Francisco Street's Alice-in-Wonderland atmosphere in this very Spanish town. Actually, I enjoyed it so much I wandered back through it two more times during my stay.

In contrast to the modern, whimsical theme of San Francisco Street, a few blocks away was the richly carved entrance to the Edificio Caturla.

There's much about Alicante that reflects its history, which dates back thousands of years. What impressed me most were the contrasts between old and new, rich and poor, traditional Spain and modern Spain.

Santa Barbara Castle watches over Alicante from the top of Benacantil Mountain, 166 meters (545 feet) above sea level.

Construction of the city's ancient castle began in the 9th century. Its base is surrounded by glittering new offices, apartment buildings, and restaurants.

In summer, Alicante transforms from a quiet Spanish town into a sunny playground for thousands of Spanish, British, Germans, and Russians on holiday. The Explanada de España (esplanade or prominade of Spain) parallels the port and is a favorite place for strolling.

I loved the gorgeous Explanada de España. It's lined on both sides with rows of palm trees and the walkway is decorated with 6½ million marble tiles that create a wave effect. Brilliant design!

Shopping fun on the Explanade at open-air stalls.

The Explanade is lined with restaurants and shops on one side and the marina on the opposite side.

If you're in the market for a new sailboat or yacht, you might find one here. Sailing buffs can also take a trip through history at the Volvo Ocean Race Museum.

Facing the marina are buildings old and new that stand shoulder-to-shoulder.

The modern four-star Gran Sol Hotel and Restaurant overlooks Alicante's marina.

Right next door to the Gran Sol Hotel is the elegant, historic Edeficio Carbonella.

After strolling up and down the Explanade, I headed through an archway that took me back in time to the Old Town.

Archway connecting modern Alicante with its Old Town.

As soon as I reached the Old Town side of the archway, I was greeted by the splendid Casa Consistorial (city council building) on Plaza Santísima Faz. The Consistorial is a baroque palace that was constructed between 1696 – 1780. I found the doors particularly beautiful.

Gorgeous doorway to the Casa Consistorial. When I was in Art School I was not a fan of Baroque architecture. I am now!

Massive main entrance to the Casa Consistorial.

Door handle and lock plate details. The face of the door was some type of metal that had a “quilted” texture.

I continued walking into the Old Town, up cobblestone streets, passing by outdoor cafes and small shops in narrow alleys.

I peeked into this charming historic hotel on a side street of Alicante.

I turned off my Google Maps app and wandered. I found my self in the really old Old Town.

Ancient stone steps led up to tiny homes clinging to a hillside. Loved the Spanish flag proudly displayed!

There were several small groups of people trudging up a hill on a dusty road. I followed them, thinking they might lead me to something interesting. Oh yes! They did!

The entire trip to Alicante was worth it just to see the exquisite Basílica de Santa Maria.

I become giddy with excitement when I see incredible beauty like this. Breathtaking! Note: Finding a scene as beautiful as this is called a “Photographic Emergency.” I must, I repeat MUST, stop and take photos.

Dusk was settling in as I trundled back down the hill to my AirBnB apartment, which was right in the middle of Old Town.

My AirBnB apartment in Alicante was an eclectic blend of rustic and modern. It was perfectly situated in the Old Town, close to everything. Loved it!

Saturday morning arrived and I was up and out the door to the dog show. I cheered as my friend showed her Aussies, took photos of unusual breeds, and sampled local cuisine at food stands—but that's another blog post.
After the show Sunday, I caught the train back home to Valencia. I enjoyed visiting Alicante, and now I know I made the perfect choice of cities in which to live.

Gratuitous selfie taken while waiting for the train home. Hey! I didn't know all the writing would be backwards!

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My Little Town of L'Eliana.

11/27/2017

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Let me take you on a tour of L'Eliana, the Spanish town where I live. It's a 20-minute train ride north and west of Valencia. When I moved here, I chose to live without a car and I use the train and bus systems, which are excellent. It's easy and inexpensive to get around.

The trains are punctual—so you'd better be too! They stop at each of the small towns for half a minute. That's 30 seconds for passengers to get off and others to board.

I enjoy riding on the trains. They are clean, air conditioned, and safe. I listen intently to the announcement about which stop is next to learn how the names are pronounced. Like Benaguasil, Les Carolines-Fira, and the one that drives me crazy, Ángel Guimerá. Because it doesn't sound anything like it's spelled.

I hop off at the train station in L'Eliana, which is a 12-minute walk from my apartment. Except when I miss the stop because I'm on Facebook and I end up at the next town. Like last Friday night.

Let me walk with you up the street from the train station. Our first stop is the Mercadona (supermarket) which is one of three modern grocery stores in L'Eliana. Lots of seafood is eaten in Spain, including shellfish, squid, octopus, eel, and fish. The big one is a Lubina (sea bass) that weighed in at over 13 lbs.

We'll stop at a small fruit and vegetable store tucked in along main street. They have lovely produce which is amazingly affordable. But you need to get there before it closes at 2. Traditional customs live on—almost every store closes at 2 p.m. daily for the mid-day meal/siesta and reopens about 5.

If we're up bright an early, we can shop at the Wednesday market. On offer are clothing, shoes, textiles, house plants, handbags. And if we're lucky, the Olive Guy will be there. You have no idea how delicious the olives are in Spain!

L'Eliana has beautiful parks. This one's glass mosaic sculptures remind me of Gaudi's Parc Guell in Barcelona.

The park is a favorite place for little kids to play during the day. Teenagers and families gather here in the evening.

L'Eliana's streets are lined with buildings that contrast ornate, time-honored architecture with newer, minimalist structures.

Beautiful architectural detail: Tile house number.

Traditional stone, wood and iron entryway.

Ironwork on door.

We'll pass traditional homes as we walk toward the modern Centre de Formación Persones Adultes (Adult Training Center) where I take Spanish lessons. L'Eliana also has a public swimming pool and an outdoor theater. The theater reminds me of drive-in movie theaters in the U.S., only with chairs instead of cars.

We can stroll down side streets and enjoy the feeling of being in a true Spanish town where stucco walls are painted in bright colors.

Then there's the matter of cats. Lots of cats. I thought this one might be dead until he lifted his scruffy head and looked at me. And went back to sleep.

Courtyards provide privacy, security, air, light, and tranquility. Most homes have courtyards that are encircled by stucco-covered walls. If this wall could talk, it would tell us fascinating stories about the history of L'Eliana.

I'm in love with the feeling of courtyards. There's something secretive about them. I slipped my camera lens between bars of an iron gate to snap this photo.

We'll wind our way toward the town square. The handsome Ajuntament (City Hall) faces the square and the church. In summer, kids stay cool by running (and screaming) through the fountains. Apparently the screaming helps. I don't know how.

The beautiful Parróquia Verge del Carme (Catholic church) sits opposite the City Hall. I love listening to its bells ring out the time of day. That's such a wonderful tradition!

Right next to the church is a plaza with palm trees and the Taller Artesano (artisan workshop). The painting on the wall is maravilloso (marvellous)! Why haven't I stopped in there yet?

Although L'Eliana is steeped in tradition, there are many modern stores and trendy services available. If you'd like to go home with some fresh ink, there's a tattoo shop just two blocks from my apartment. You can have your hair and nails done, buy fashionable clothes, get photocopies made, and shop for fancy electronic gadgets.

Spain's blending of old and new is fascinating to me. I loved being immersed in the stunning historic architecture and rich cultural traditions, and yet I have WiFi! It doesn't get any better than this! Thank you for joining me on this brief tour of my little town.

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Even More to Love about Valencia

9/4/2017

When I travel, I want to see beauty: expressive artwork, sublime landscapes, glorious architecture. I explored Valencia and was so charmed by its blend of art and architecture that I decided to make it my home.

I wast astonished at the sheer number of handsome buildings that grace the city. Nearly every block has a facade that's photo-worthy. Many of the structures have historical significance and are still in use today.

I love the mash-up of architectural styles that are incorporated into many of the buildings. Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical all play nicely together. They represent artistic influences that spread across Europe and were interpreted by Spanish architects.

Moorish and Byzantine influences can also be seen in this facade. I'd find it very difficult to classify this building as any particular architectural style. That's what makes it so interesting. And look at all the detail! A very creative architect came up with this plan.

No detail was left to chance. A simple streetlight is a work of art. I'm in awe of the ironwork and have no idea how this was made, but I love it! This type of beautiful detail is everywhere in Valencia's downtown district.

Dramatic winged archers, a steam locomotive, and a wooden ship adorn this clock tower. There's a message here.... I waited 20 minutes for a city bus to get out of the way so I could take this shot. Such a fascinating building!

Another clock tower with ornate detail, sans archers. This structure is almost fanciful in design -- It reminds me of a wedding cake with columns holding up the layers.

Looking for more buildings to photograph, I strolled down the street, where I enjoyed the brilliant colors of outdoor flower markets.

When I heard the clip-clop of hooves, I turned around and saw mounted police on matching horses. As a horse lover, it makes my heart go pitty-pat to see equine in the big city.

Walking past an old building near the Central Market, this snail motif stopped me in my tracks. I marveled at the attention to detail and careful workmanship.

Sometimes just looking up can be a delightful surprise. The rosy-colored stucco wall was accented by a window balcony with a black iron railing. But the designer went even farther by adding interesting detail under the balcony and a motif on the front of the railing. The window frames are also rich with detail.

I'd had an exciting day of shooting and was ready for dinner. As I walked toward the restaurant, I passed a prosthesis shop which apparently uses this wooden leg as their advertising. My friend said she knew a guy with a wooden leg named Steve. I asked her, "What's the name of the other leg?" <groan>

La Tagliatella. A scrumptious Italian dinner and lovely glass of wine in the magnificent Spanish city of Valencia. Perfecto!

Click to read My Love Affair with Valencia

Click to read Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

8/21/2017

Write this on your “Must Do” list when you visit Valencia: Shop the Mercado Central (Central Market). The building itself is a gorgeous art nouveau showpiece worth seeing, but it also houses one of the largest public markets in Europe. It's like your local farmers market on steroids – inside a palace.

The grand entrance to the Central Market welcomes tourists from around the world.

The market covers an area of over 8,000 square meters (86,111 square feet). For comparison, a U.S. football field is 57,600 square feet including the end zones.

In the center of the magnificent structure is an intricate stained glass dome depicting the richness of Valencia’s fruit. The market is a symbol of the diversity of this region which produces internationally renowned fruits and vegetables.

The market is a gastronomic heaven with nearly a thousand market stalls offering fresh meats, fruit, vegetables, seafood, cheeses, baked goods, olives, and lots of wine. There’s even a snail stand and a stand dedicated to the spice saffron (signature spice in paella). You can also buy funky souvenirs and rather unusual snacks.

The Market is divided into sections for different produce. In the fish market, everything fishy is colorfully displayed on crushed ice. You can find all sorts of seafood including calamares (squid rings), sépias (cuttlefish), pulpo (squid tentacles), and – my personal favorite – shellfish of all types and sizes. You can even buy live eels. (Terrified Emoji here.)

If you're in the mood to try something unusual, take a look at the percebes. They are barnacles that look like tiny severed legs with the hoof attached. They are supposed to be delicious, but I think the texture would be too weird for me to handle. Especially the crunchy hoof part. (Another terrified Emoji here.)

Next stop is the cured ham section. Mind you, this is not one stand. This is an entire section of stands offering the finest hams. The Spanish take their jamón (ham) very seriously and you can find many types and qualities. Jamón ibérico is the celebrated ham made from Black Iberian pigs who graze on acorns. This specialty can cost you over €150/kilo ($68/lb). For the curious: yes, it does taste like acorns, in a good way.

In need of something to sustain you through the rest of your exploration of the Market? Try the gazpacho-to-go! This delight takes fast food to a whole new level. Or, if you prefer, you can have tapas with a nice glass of wine at the Central Bar.

Next stop: Fruits and Vegetables section. So many choices! So little time! You can pick up a glass of fresh-squeezed Valencia orange juice at one of many fruit stands. The flavor is out-of-this-world! Grab some fresh apples to snack on later, too.

Many of the beautiful, ripe fruit and vegetables are seasonal and locally grown. They are on the menus of restaurants across the city. Your farmers market back home would be jealous if it knew you were here.

Does cooking paella sound like fun to you? Indulge yourself with the perfect paella pan! The selection here boggles the mind. Sizes and styles to suit the most discerning taste.

Sometimes you need to take home a bit of memorabilia from your trip, or you might be looking for that perfect white-elephant gift for your brother's birthday. The Central Market is sure to have what you're looking for. I couldn't resist the Gaudi-inspired spoon rest as the perfect accent to my kitchen. A couple of fancy wine bottle stoppers also came home with me. Refrigerator magnets, handsome tiles, you-name-it. There are plenty of fun choices!

You don't want to miss Valencia's Central Market. It's open Monday – Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Closed Sundays. BYOB (bring your own bag) and have a shopping extravaganza!

Click here to read Everyday Street Scenes in Barcelona

My Love Affair with Valencia.

8/14/2017

The train station in my tiny hometown in Estados Unidos (United States) was ancient, dark, and dusty. The floorboards squeaked. Uncomfortable wood benches flanked the entrance. In Alemania (Germany), the train stations I'd been through were of modern industrial design, spare, and efficient. In total contrast, when I stepped off the train and into the station in Valencia, Spain, I was startled by its beauty. Welcome to Valencia!

The majestic Estació del Nord (North Train Station) celebrates Valencia oranges. I was amazed when I discovered its handsome façade is decorated with glazed tiles that depict oranges. Mosaics inside the station also tell the story of oranges.

Yes, Valencia oranges really do grow here. For centuries the fruit has been tremendously important to the economy. There's even a cocktail celebrating oranges; Agua de Valencia (water of Valencia) is a delightful concoction of orange juice, cava, vodka, and gin. It's perfect after lunch, served chilled in a shot glass.

Fun fact: Along with oranges, Valencia is a prime rice growing area! Rice has been grown for over 1000 years on the low-lying land near the coast. Paella (pah-aye-ah) is the rice-based signature dish of Valencia. It's a free-style combo of rice, meat and/or seafood, with a few vegetables tossed in for a good measure. It's seasoned with saffron which gives the rice a lovely golden hue.

Tantalizing seafood paella I helped make during a cooking class. Write “cooking class” on your Must Do list when you visit Spain.

Speaking of food, the Mercado Central (Central Market), a beautiful art nouveau showpiece, is one of the largest public markets in Europe. Inside, a thousand market stalls are piled high with the freshest and finest meats, fruit, vegetables, and seafood. You can also grab souvenirs and snacks. Try the barnacles washed down with gazpacho-to-go! The Central Market is so fascinating that it will have its own post on this blog. Watch for it!

Right next door to the Central Market is Església de Sant Joan del Mercat. I dare you to say that fast three times. It's the Church of St. John of the Market. The ornate clock tower is flanked by a matched pair of St. Johns. The rather unusual weather vane on top of the façade is known as the Bird of St. John. I was stunned by the incredible detail covering every surface of the building.

Valencia's commercial prosperity in the 15th century spurred the construction of Llotja de la Seda (Silk Exchange building), to house commercial transactions and a marine merchant tribunal. The name of the magnificent la Llotja reflects the importance of the city's silk industry.

Another fun fact: In the past, if a merchant couldn't meet his financial obligations, the Trading Market would remove one leg of the bench he used. The bench was called a banco rota (broken bench), which later led to the English word "bankrupt."

The Silk Exchange's immense Sala de Contratación (Contract Hall) was the room where where merchants negotiated contracts. The intricate marble floor and awe-inspiring spiral pillars were total eye-candy for me.

Another area of the Silk Exchange, Consulado del Mar (Consulate of the Sea), was where the Trade Court met to solve maritime trade issues. The room is embellished with an intricately carved wood ceiling and massive doors. It occurred to me that the gorgeous tile floor would be a spectacular place to dance!

A few blocks to the northwest are the imposing medieval Torres de Quart (Towers of Quart). They were constructed between 1441 and 1460 as defensive gates for the city and were built of natural stone from quarries near Valencia. I was impressed by the cannonball damage sustained during the siege of the city by France in 1808. These towers withstood a ferocious pounding!

I've taken you around just a few blocks and we'll circle back to the majestic Estació del Nord. Beautiful by day. Gorgeous by night. There's so much more to see in Valencia! I can't wait to share more posts about this exquisite city.

Click here for a quick link to two maps that highlight the area we just explored. Check them out, then do yourself a favor and come to Valencia!

Click here to read Even More To Love About Valencia

La Sagrada Familia. Exquisite beyond belief.

6/30/2017

Big girls don't cry in public. I find it dreadfully embarrassing. Then I found myself inside La Sagrada Familia with tears streaming down my face. I was in such awe of the beauty of the basilica that I couldn't hold back my emotions.

I've visited magnificent cathedrals with soaring Gothic arches, priceless marble statues, and intricate stained glass windows. They filled me with wonder and admiration. But they didn't bring me to tears.

La Sagrada Familia (The Sacred Family) is in a class of its own when it comes to stirring emotions.

Antoni Gaudí was the architect of Barcelona's controversial basilica. Its radical design received both intense criticism and immense praise. Some people considered Gaudí to be crazy; others thought he was brilliant. I think his work was pure genius.

Approaching La Sagrada Familia from the park is like entering an enchanted forest.

The first stone for the building was laid in 1882. Because the scale of the project was so massive, Gaudí knew it would never be finished in his lifetime. He created detailed models of his ideas so architects were able to continue work after his death.

Cranes reveal the ongoing construction. The basilica is expected to be completed in 2026, 150 years after work began. Generations of architects and builders have been dedicated to finishing this monumental project. Funding for the work comes solely from donations and ticket sales.

Exterior sculptural detail of Jesus' birth announced by angels with trumpets. “A church is the only thing worthy of representing the feelings of a people, for religion is the highest thing in people.” - Antoni Gaudí

The Holy Water font in the entrance of La Sagrada Familia reflects Gaudí's inspiration by the structure of shells. I loved how the smooth, glossy interior and rough exterior of the vessel beautifully reinterpreted a shell, and how such an ordinary object was re-imagined as a vessel with purpose and dignity.

When I moved from the entrance into this part of the basilica I was flooded with emotion. The beauty was overwhelming. Gaudí's inspiration came from trees, leaves, cones, bones, and shells. He copied the structure of these natural forms to create a strong building that was filled with light.

Gaudí’s architecture was unique and constantly surprising; he carefully considered every tiny detail of his work. I was awestruck by the incredible design, soaring heights, intricate ceiling decoration, and brilliant stained glass windows.

Ceiling structures were patterned after leaves and the supporting columns were designed like trees. I felt like I was in a forest rather than inside a church.

Gaudí's lifelong passions were architecture, nature, and religion. His work became an expression of his deep religious beliefs. Above the altar, you turn your gaze upwards to view the sculpture of the Crucifixion of Christ.

Gaudí understood that nature uses curved forms, not straight lines. This area of the basilica is an example of his genius in choosing organic shapes, patterns, and textures to create feelings of strength and serenity.

When you visit Barcelona, you must see La Sagrada Familia. It's magnificent! Bring your selfie-stick so you can share the experience with all your Facebook friends. You can even purchase memorabilia on the way to your next destination.

Tickets are only available online. Be sure to buy them well in advance of your visit because they sell out. If you aren't claustrophobic or afraid of heights, you can ascend one of the towers in an elevator, then walk down 400 steps to the ground.

More info and to order tickets click here: http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/tickets/

Everyday Street Scenes in Barcelona

6/23/2017

Barcelona is a destination you don't want to miss. Play on some of the best beaches in the world, enjoy luscious parks and recreational areas, get worked into a lather at international sport tournaments, and discover secrets of world-reknowned historical buildings and museums.

Me? I went to Barcelona for the awesome architecture!

What amazed me were the gorgeous buildings that dot the city. Not just the most popular tourist attractions, but exquisite structures that get less attention. On their way to work, people walk past these places without taking notice. They're just part of the everyday landscape where they live.

I marveled at the buildings, grabbed my camera and captured their beauty. All of these buildings were photographed within a short walk from La Sagrada Familia, which is a Barcelona landmark and World Heritage site.

This opulent facade is an expression of the power and prestige of its owner. 

Cathedral influenced by the Gothic architectural style.

Gothic architecture, which evolved from Romanesque architecture, arrived in Spain in the 12th century as a result of influence from other European countries, especially France. Its characteristics include the pointed arch, the ribbed vault, and the flying buttress.

Architectural styles were combined with traditional cultural design elements to create unique buildings.

Detail of an exquisite upscale residence on Carrer de Valencia.

Decorative iron railings and ornate plasterwork adorn the building above. Many buildings in Barcelona have offices and shops on the ground level and apartments above.

Notice the organic Modernisme elements that were incorporated into this edifice.

In the late 19th century, Barcelona experienced a burst of architectural creativity known as the Catalan Modernisme movement. This style, which used organic forms for inspiration, was a significant departure from previous architectural styles.

La Sagrada Familia was designed by the brilliant architect Antoni Gaudi in the Catalan Modernisme style.

La Sagrada Familia, one of Barcelona's gems, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its unique, innovative, and artistic architecture. Construction of the basilica began in 1882 and is expected to be completed in 2026. When construction is finished it will be the tallest religious building in Europe. When you visit Barcelona, make this Number 1 on your "Must See" list.

Beautiful ironwork detail and marble pilasters decorate this massive entrance on an otherwise ordinary Barcelona street.

The architecture was astounding, breathtaking, phenomenal! Wandering around the city, getting the flavor of life here, was equally fascinating. Europe is so European. That's why I love it so much! It's not the United States. The customs and pace of life are completely different. The people are wonderful, and contrary to what you might think, many of them don't speak English. So ramp up your Spanish language skills and come on over!

You'll find tiny fruit and vegetable stores on almost every city block. There's also at least one baked-goods shop on each block, with delicioso croissants!

Motorcycles and mopeds are everywhere. You have to keep a sharp eye out when crossing the street so you don't get run over.

Flowers burst out of the store and onto the sidewalk.

Many bars, shops, and restaurants (not in food-prep areas) are dog-friendly. Fido can even travel on the metro and local trains.

Every street corner has cozy outdoor seating for evening drinks and food. Perfect for romance! Spanish people are intensely social and take every opportunity to sit with their friends and family to dine al fresco.

Pouring at Teoric Taverna Gastronomica.

I'll let you in on a secret: Teoric Taverna Gastronomica is a wonderful little tapas bar just off Carrer de Valencia. When I visited, it had been open just six months and hadn't yet been discovered by the masses. The owners, Teo and Ori, offer highly original tapas using locally sourced ingredients. And the menu is amazing!

Olives with vermouth and orange. Duck, turnip and plum tacos. Life is an adventure--run with it!

Seasonal vegetables and cheese toast. Not like any cheese toast I ate as a kid!

Go to Barcelona. Go to Teoric. You'll need a reservation. Check out their website. It will make you hungry. http://teoric.cat/

Click here to read La Sagrada Familia

Moving to Europe Part 1: My first stop was Germany.

5/13/2017

Touching Down in Germany.
Saturday, April 29
My cell phone can't speak German. At least, that seemed to be the problem when it wasn't able to connect with any cell towers after landing at the Frankfurt airport. Apparently, my phone didn't bother to read about its' new International Plan. Because the phone wasn't functioning, I was anxious that I wouldn't be able to contact my Aussie club host.

My arrival in Germany was a familiar mix of excitement and anxiety. I was delighted to be following my dream of living in Europe. Figuring out my way around airports, train stations, and cities – with directional signs in foreign languages – is equal parts of uneasiness and adventure.

My plan was to take a train from the Frankfurt airport to Bonn, where I'd be picked up and taken to my hotel. I'd never taken the train before and didn't know where the station was located.

I wandered around the Frankfurt airport for a while, looking for the train station. I finally found it. I struggled my way through buying a train ticket from a machine, and took the “lift” (elevator) down to Track 6. My next challenge was deciphering the train schedule. I managed to get on the right train and was delivered to the Bonn station. The difficult part of the trip was over.

A delightful young man, Phillip, picked me up and took me to the charming Hotel Zur Börsch in Niedercastle. Several excellent restaurants and the historic Rhine river were just three blocks away. I had a delicious dinner of Asian food at MayDao, went back to the hotel, and fell sound asleep. Several nights later I enjoyed an Italian dinner with friends at Ristorante Da Pino, and I highly recommend both restaurants if you make your way to Niedercastle.

The Hotel Zur Börsch in Niedercastle where I stayed during my time in Germany. The hotel's restaurant was outstanding.

Car ferries take vehicles across the Rhine river. The Rhine is culturally and historically one of the great rivers of the continent and among the most important arteries of industrial transport in the world.

The Magnificent Cologne Cathedral
Sunday, April 30
Phillip and his mother, Elke (el-kay) treated me to a tour of Cologne, Germany. We admired the city's cathedral, explored a Roman history museum, viewed the entire city from atop a tower, and hiked across the Hohenzollern Bridge over the Rhine river. Phillip was the best tour guide! He shared his knowledge of Cologne's history from World War II to the present day.

Cologne Cathedral exterior with my tour guide Phillip. The cathedral suffered fourteen hits by aerial bombs during World War II. Although badly damaged, it nevertheless remained standing.

The Crucifix of Bishop Gero is the oldest large sculpture of the crucified Christ north of the Alps. It is carved in oak, and painted and partially gilded. Constructed around 965–970 and standing over six feet tall, it was one of the largest crosses of its time.

Arches rise over 140 feet in the medieval east end of the cathedral. The foundation stone of the cathedral was laid in 1248. In the early 16th century, construction was halted, due to a lack of money and interest. In 1842, construction began again and the cathedral was finally completed in 1880.

The Cathedral's towering stained glass windows are part of the largest collection of early 14th century windows existing in Europe. Today they are threatened by air pollution. Glaziers are constantly working on their maintenance and restoration.

Padlocks, Pretzels and Pubs

To fortify ourselves for hours of walking, we stopped at a Cologne bakery next to the town square. The almond-encrusted treats and warm-from-the-oven croissants and pretzels were irresistible!

Railings on the Hohenzollern Bridge are covered with “Love Locks” which are considered one of Cologne's most charming traditions. Couples fix padlocks on the railings, and to ensure everlasting love, they throw the key into the Rhine river. Tens of thousands of couples and friends from Cologne and all over the world have sworn their loyalty to each other in this way.

To cap off the day, we ate dinner at the Frühe Brauhaus where I was introduced to Kölsch (curl-sh) ale. The name Kölsch can only be used to describe a beer brewed in Cologne. The Kölsch Konvention stipulates: 1) the beer must be brewed in the Cologne metropolitan area, 2) must be pale, 3) must be top-fermented, 4) must be hop-accented, 5) must be filtered, and 6) it must have a gravity between 11-14% plato (whatever that is). Another tradition around Kölsch is that you will be served the ale one after another if you don't say "no" and put the beer pad (coaster) on top of your glass.

Alicante. A Spanish City of Contrasts.

My Little Town of L'Eliana.

Even More to Love about Valencia

Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

My Love Affair with Valencia.

La Sagrada Familia. Exquisite beyond belief.

Everyday Street Scenes in Barcelona

Moving to Europe Part 1: My first stop was Germany.

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Paula McDermid

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Don't miss a thing! Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.

Paula McDermid

Categories

Don't miss a thing!
Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.