Unforgettable Aussies
  • Home
  • Books
  • Reviews
  • Stories
    • Dusty
    • Thistle
    • Sunny
    • Bonzo
    • London
    • Dude
    • Flintridge Aussies
  • Contact

Call Me Brave or Call Me Crazy?

9/12/2017

 
Picture
When I announced my intention to move to Spain, the first question I always received was, “Are you going alone?”
​I answered, “Yes.”

“Do you know anyone there?” “No.”

“Do you have a place to live?” “No.”

Inevitably they would exclaim, “You're so brave!”

I didn't feel like bravery was taking me to Europe. I was being pulled by my dream to live there.

At first, I tentatively shared my plan with my son and sisters. At that point I thought maybe I was crazy. Sixty-four years old, single, leaving a job I enjoyed, selling my lovely home, getting rid of all my stuff, and moving to Europe—alone—with just a suitcase and my camera. That did sound way crazy. It also sounded like a Big Adventure.

If my family had told me not to go—that it was too risky, or too stupid, or just plain a bad idea—I might have changed my mind and stayed put. But none of them did. My son said, “Go for it!” My sisters said, “We want to go!”

I got braver. I started telling a few friends, expecting some negative reactions. But every one of them said, “That's so exciting! I want to do that too!”

Now it was too late to back out. I'd told everyone close to me about my dream, and the pressure was on to make it happen. I set my plan in motion to move to Europe within one year.  
Picture
Downsizing. I sold my home in Oregon's beautiful Rogue Valley.
My first task was to implement Downsizing 1.0. I sold my house, sold or gave away all my furniture and household stuff. Although it was painful, I even sold my beautiful Set-R-Rite grooming table and all my dog equipment. I downsized from a 1500 square foot house to a 132 square foot room in a girlfriend's home.  
Picture
Temporary quarters in my friend's home.
People really thought I was crazy when I told them I planned to move to Europe with just one suitcase and my camera gear. That would require Downsizing 2.0 and the program was implemented one month prior to takeoff.
Picture
This is what I took to Europe: a 25” suitcase filled to capacity with clothing, a large purple duffel bag, and a backpack with my camera and electronics. Nothing more. I had to leave behind my camera tripod, Western boots <gasp!>, and a few other valuables. They simply wouldn't fit.

I wanted to take a second suitcase, but that was all I could manage with my travel and living situations. During my first six weeks in Europe, I had two judging assignments—one in Germany and one in France—and lived at a series of AirBnB apartments, with no permanent address. I could only manage one suitcase. When I made a trip back to the U.S., I returned to Europe with my other important stuff, including my boots.

Why now?
One fateful Friday night in February of 2016, I ended up in the hospital Emergency Room with a serious infection. It took weeks of heavy antibiotic use to recover. At that moment, I realized I wasn't getting any younger and I wasn't getting any healthier. Although I've always taken good care of myself, age was creeping up on me. (I hate to admit that!)

I watched my parents' dreams evaporate because their health deteriorated. They'd been to Europe once and wanted to visit again. But Mom had a stroke. Dad had heart problems. They were no longer able to go, and I swore I'd never let that happen to me. Shortly before she died, Mom gave me her cherished book about Florence, Italy. She said, “You'll have to go for me.” I will, Mom. My trip is scheduled for this fall.

Why Spain?
I'd been invited to judge dog shows in Europe a dozen times. Those judging assignments made it possible for me to explore regions near the shows. I'd been to Germany, the U.K., and France. Germany was beautiful, I spoke some German, and thought it could be a great place to live.

Just one teeny, tiny problem. Winter weather.

For 58 years I'd lived near Minneapolis and Chicago. Winters were cold. Very cold. Snow and ice were abundant. My neighbor used his skid-loader and bucket to clear my driveway—a shovel wasn't up to the task. Water in my dogs' water buckets froze solid in a couple of hours. I was tired of battling the weather and needed a major change.
Picture
Need I say more about Midwest winters?
​

In 2013, I escaped the frozen Midwest tundra and headed to the West Coast (close to California) where winters were milder. Never again would I live anyplace cold and snowy. Sadly, that knocked Germany and its chilly winters off my list of potential places to live.

When I planned My Big Adventure to Europe, warm weather was my number one criteria. Not too hot, not too cold, lots of sunshine. Spain's Mediterranean climate looked perfect.

Cities on the Mediterranean coast had the most moderate climates. Barcelona, Valencia, Alicante. I visited Barcelona and had a great time. My plan was to visit Valencia and Alicante, and then choose where to live. I made it as far as Valencia, fell madly in love with the city, and set down roots.

However, I'm not a big city girl. I prefer a small-town lifestyle. Through a stroke of luck I was introduced to the pueblo (town) of L'Eliana, which is a 20-minute metro ride from Valencia. It's an absolutely charming place, a mix of traditional Spanish culture with modern touches. My luck continued, I found an apartment the first day, and I settled in. I often pinch myself and say, “I'm here! I'm really living in Spain!”
Picture
Parròquia Verge del Carme on L'Eliana's town square. The church is still an important part of Spanish life.
Picture
Ajuntament de l'Eliana. The Town Hall faces the church across the town square.
Picture
Palm trees and a mural in my pueblo (town) of L'Eliana near Valencia, Spain.
​
​

Was I Afraid?
One thing that fascinates me about My Big Adventure is that I never felt any fear of the unknown. I had the utmost confidence that my plan would succeed, and it did. Here I am in Europe, this magical place, living my dream. Big risk, big payoff.

Brave or crazy? Maybe a little of both.

My sister Gracia passed away.

7/31/2017

 
Picture
Picture
It's hard to believe she's gone. Gracia (gray-sha) and I played together and fought with each other as kids. We grew close as adults. I helped her get through her bout of cancer three years ago. I spent a lot of time with her, enjoying her feisty personality. I loaned my Aussie, Zubi, to her as a companion and therapy dog when I had to be away.

This was the third time cancer invaded her body. She fought it with a vengeance. But this time, even with the miracle of modern medicine, she couldn’t beat it.

She enrolled in a clinical trial to try an experimental therapy that might buy her more time. It made her very ill, but she kept fighting.

On July 3 we received a report that the experimental treatment wasn't working. The tumors were growing rapidly. Six days later she died.

I flew from Spain to Oregon, hoping to see her one last time. But I was too late. I'm thankful that I went to see her in April, just before I moved to Europe. Although her death doesn't seem real, I know I'll never hug her again.

It will never be the same again without my very special sister. Gracia, I love you and will miss you.

Gracia McDermid
December 3, 1954 – July 9, 2017

I'll tell the rest of her story in pictures because they share more than what I'm able to convey in words.
Picture
Gracia is the kid on dad's knee. He gave her the nickname “Steamroller” because she was such a determined child. Nothing stopped her.
Picture
The McDermid-Nelson-Slick clan of cousins with our beloved Grandpa Chris. Gracia is wearing the polka-dot shirt. We cousins keep in touch. They sent beautiful flowers for the memorial service.
Picture
We were a family of five kids. Because we were PKs (Preacher's Kids), we went to church a lot. This photo was taken in the church's choir area. Gracia is wearing the orange dress. I'm wearing the black scoop neck top, in case you're curious.
Picture
Gracia grew up and became an excellent nurse. We were very proud that she excelled in the Intensive Care Unit and as an emergency flight (air ambulance) nurse. She loved seeing many of the Western states from the sky. This is a photo of Crater Lake she snapped during one of her emergency missions.
Picture
She had two beautiful daughters. Aquila “Quilly” was the oldest. My son, my Aussie, and I went to Phoenix, where Gracia lived at that time, to take care of Quilly when Gracia went to the hospital to give birth to her second daughter.
Picture
 Sisters Bonnie, Gracia and Paula. We stopped fighting and became friends after we grew up. Funny how that happens.
Picture
Zubi was a comfort to my sister during her bout of cancer in 2014. He was the perfect Therapy Dog.
Picture
Gracia with her beautiful daughters Quilly and Liriel.
Picture
Bonnie was the baby of the family. She and Gracia were great playmates and had a tight bond throughout their lives.
Picture
A new member joined the family when Liriel married her chidhood sweetheart, Sean. When Gracia's grandson, Pierson, was born her whole world lit up with love for him.
Picture
Picture
When Pierson gets older, these photos will let him know how much his grandma loved him.
​Rest in Peace, dear sister.

Personal Care Culture Shock

5/23/2017

 
Picture
“Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore,” said Dorothy to her terrier in The Wizard of Oz.

I'm in Spain. My Spanish language skills are woefully inadequate. As I fumble around creating a new life in L'Eliana, I have goofy experiences.

Personal Care Products
I hoped to find American cosmetics and body care products in Spain. No such luck. No Burt's Bees lotions or lip gloss. No Dr. Bronner's soap. No brand names that I recognized. So far I hadn't found any non-toxic products, but my search continues.

The stores didn't carry my favorite products; I had to start from scratch. Reading cosmetic package labels and translating them with my phone app was hilarious.
Picture
My translator app didn't know what Nispero meant. It's a "loquat," which is a fruit that originated in China.
​

I ran out of body wash and I'm rather particular about what I use. I don't care for heavily-scented products. I'm sure the sales clerk in the store thought I was completely crazy as I lifted the caps and sniffed every bottle of body wash on the shelves. There was too much scent and too many unpleasant chemicals in the formulas.

​Switch to Plan B: buy a bar of soap. That seemed simple enough. I selected a bar that looked relatively non-toxic, with pictures of pretty white flowers and olives (for olive oil, I guess) on the wrapper. Of course, I sniffed the package. It had a pleasant citrus scent. Score!

​I happily carried the bar of soap back to my AirBnB apartment, unwrapped it, and placed near the bathroom sink. But wait! What 
 was  that scent? Not citrus. It took me several minutes to figure it out. The soap smelled like CHERRY KOOLAID! Gaaaawww!


Body Butter 
In this dry Spanish climate, I needed heavy-duty body lotion. The local Mercado (a market much like larger grocery stores in the U.S.) had a good selection. Once again, I opened every container and took a sniff. After all, I needed to be able to enjoy the scent with lotion all over me.

The only problem was, they all smelled the same. They had kind of a fishy overtone. That made no sense at all. Then I ambled around to the other side of the aisle and saw, to my surprise
, the fresh fish counter! Aaarrrgghhh!
Picture
It was difficult enough to find a scent I liked. Even more challenging when the products were near the seafood aisle!
​
Grocery Store Gaffes 
It was challenging for me to communicate in Spanish while paying for my groceries at the check-out counter. Truthfully, my conversations were rather limited. I could usually remember “Hola” (hello), “Buenos Dias” (good morning), and “Gracias” (thank-you). Although once, under pressure, I said “Buenos Dias” when I should have said “Adios” (good-bye). Okay, so I choked.

Giving the correct amount of money was simple enough. I held out my hand and let the cashier pick the right coins. Easy-peasy!

I needed fruit and vegetables. I carried my handbasket to the produce aisle in the Mercado and made my selections. I noticed other people putting their produce in individual plastic bags, so I followed suit, except that I used just one bag to conserve resources.

At the check-out counter the cashier rattled off something in Spanish that I, of course, couldn't understand. At some point it dawned on me that I hadn't weighed the food or applied UPC labels, since our produce in the U.S. has little UPC labels on each vegetable and piece of fruit.

​By the time I realized what I should have done, the cashier had already hustled back to the produce aisle and weighed the apple, orange, carrot, green pepper, and zucchini. She returned to the check-out counter with my produce bag plastered with five UPC labels. It took her three tries to properly scan all the labels because the scanner had a hard time reading them individually. They were too close together.

​After all was said and done, and I'd wasted at least ten minutes of the cashier's time, I learned my new word of the day.
 "Lo siento." I'm sorry.
Picture
Manzana is "apple." Note to self: always remember to weigh produce and apply the UPC code.

The next time I went to the grocery store, I was prepared. Not only did I bring my reusable shopping bag, but I knew how to weigh and label produce. I was on my game. I confidently selected apples and oranges, put them in individual bags, weighed them, and applied the UPC labels.

​I saw several people looking at me in an odd way. What? Wasn't I doing this properly? After careful observation, I noticed other shoppers were wearing a plastic glove on the hand they used to touch the produce. I made another grocery store gaffe! Lesson learned. Now I know where to find the plastic gloves. And I kept mine to reuse later and conserve resources.
Picture
That's my hand in a plastic glove. It's a weird-looking photograph in which my hand looks like an alien appendage.
Wishy Washy
Washing clothes when on the road can be a big challenge. It's difficult to find a self-service laundromat. In Spain, many homes have washing machines but do not have tumble driers. Clothes are dried on a clothes line or drying rack, which is a bit tricky on rainy days. In my case, simply purchasing laundry detergent became a daunting task that even my trusty phone translator app wasn't quite up to.
​
I located the aisle at the Mercado that had the best shot at having washing detergent of some sort. I attempted to read the labels. I made guesses based on the size of containers and the little pictures on them. I queried my translator app. I stood there for over an hour attempting to choose the right product to get my clothes clean.
Picture
Was it laundry detergent? Did it contain scary-looking chemicals? Was the scent too strong? (Yes, I sniffed the bottles.) Was it stain remover? Bleach substitute? Fabric softener? Dishwasher detergent? One package looked like cat food.  
Picture
When queried, my translator app was marginally useful, when it could have saved me from tremendous aggravation and self-doubt. The first words I needed translated were sin lejia which meant “without bleach.” So far, so good.

​The next word was quitamanchas. Translator responded “quitamanchas.” Not helpful at all. That could have been key, because it meant stain remover.

​I didn't know that until I got home and asked my real computer what the word meant. Two more successes: lavadora was “washing machine” and manchas was “stains.” Now I was getting somewhere. But then another unanswered question: rozaduras. Translator responded “rozaduras.” What?
Picture
Tejidos was “fabrics,” cuellos was “necks,” punos was “cuffs.” We were getting somewhere now. That bottle was stain remover. But then blanqueante came back as “teeth whitening systems.” I don't think so.
​
Eventually I found bottles with pictures of washing machines and shirts. I was pretty sure I'd found the right products. The considerations at that point were whether to buy liquid or powder, what size of container, and if it contained environmentally un-friendly ingredients.

​I settled on an orange box with a picture of what appeared to be Castille soap squashed into convenient little tablets. There was a picture of a happy tree, sunshine and a rainbow next to the words activos biodegradables. Even I could understand “biodegradables.” The front of the carton gave me joy: Detergente Lavadora Tabletas. “Washing machine detergent tablets.” 
Picture
SUCCESS! I'm not back in Kansas, but at least I'll have clean clothes.

Moving to Europe Part 1:  My first stop was Germany.

5/13/2017

 
Picture
Touching Down in Germany.
​Saturday, April 29
My cell phone can't speak German. At least, that seemed to be the problem when it wasn't able to connect with any cell towers after landing at the Frankfurt airport. Apparently, my phone didn't bother to read about its' new International Plan. Because the phone wasn't functioning, I was anxious that I wouldn't be able to contact my Aussie club host.

My arrival in Germany was a familiar mix of excitement and anxiety. I was delighted to be following my dream of living in Europe. Figuring out my way around airports, train stations, and cities – with directional signs in foreign languages – is equal parts of uneasiness and adventure.

My plan was to take a train from the Frankfurt airport to Bonn, where I'd be picked up and taken to my hotel. I'd never taken the train before and didn't know where the station was located.

I wandered around the Frankfurt airport for a while, looking for the train station. I finally found it. I struggled my way through buying a train ticket from a machine, and took the “lift” (elevator) down to Track 6. My next challenge was deciphering the train schedule. I managed to get on the right train and was delivered to the Bonn station. The difficult part of the trip was over.

A delightful young man, Phillip, picked me up and took me to the charming Hotel Zur Börsch in Niedercastle. Several excellent restaurants and the historic Rhine river were just three blocks away. I had a delicious dinner of Asian food at MayDao, went back to the hotel, and fell sound asleep. Several nights later I enjoyed an Italian dinner with friends at Ristorante Da Pino, and I highly recommend both restaurants if you make your way to Niedercastle.
Picture
The Hotel Zur Börsch in Niedercastle where I stayed during my time in Germany. The hotel's restaurant was outstanding.
​

Picture
Car ferries take vehicles across the Rhine river. The Rhine is culturally and historically one of the great rivers of the continent and among the most important arteries of industrial transport in the world.  

The Magnificent Cologne Cathedral ​
Sunday, April 30

Phillip and his mother, Elke (el-kay) treated me to a tour of Cologne, Germany. We admired the city's cathedral, explored a Roman history museum, viewed the entire city from atop a tower, and hiked across the Hohenzollern Bridge over the Rhine river. Phillip was the best tour guide! He shared his knowledge of Cologne's history from World War II to the present day.  
Picture
Cologne Cathedral exterior with my tour guide Phillip. The cathedral suffered fourteen hits by aerial bombs during World War II. Although badly damaged, it nevertheless remained standing.

Picture
The Crucifix of Bishop Gero is the oldest large sculpture of the crucified Christ north of the Alps. It is carved in oak, and painted and partially gilded. Constructed around 965–970 and standing over six feet tall, it was one of the largest crosses of its time.
​

Picture
Arches rise over 140 feet in the medieval east end of the cathedral. The foundation stone of the cathedral was laid in 1248. In the early 16th century, construction was halted, due to a lack of money and interest. In 1842, construction began again and the cathedral was finally completed in 1880.
​

Picture
The Cathedral's towering stained glass windows are part of the largest collection of early 14th century windows existing in Europe. Today they are threatened by air pollution. Glaziers are constantly working on their maintenance and restoration.

Padlocks, Pretzels and Pubs
Picture
To fortify ourselves for hours of walking, we stopped at a Cologne bakery next to the town square. The almond-encrusted treats and warm-from-the-oven croissants and pretzels were irresistible! 

Picture
Railings on the Hohenzollern Bridge are covered with “Love Locks” which are considered one of Cologne's most charming traditions. Couples fix padlocks on the railings, and to ensure everlasting love, they throw the key into the Rhine river. Tens of thousands of couples and friends from Cologne and all over the world have sworn their loyalty to each other in this way.​

Picture
To cap off the day, we ate dinner at the Frühe Brauhaus where I was introduced to Kölsch (curl-sh) ale. The name Kölsch can only be used to describe a beer brewed in Cologne. The Kölsch Konvention stipulates: 1) the beer must be brewed in the Cologne metropolitan area, 2) must be pale, 3) must be top-fermented, 4) must be hop-accented, 5) must be filtered, and 6) it must have a gravity between 11-14% plato (whatever that is). Another tradition around Kölsch is that you will be served the ale one after another if you don't say "no" and put the beer pad (coaster) on top of your glass.
​

Moving to Europe Part 2:  Aussies in Germany.

5/11/2017

 
Picture
Rainy Day for a Dog Show
​
Monday, May 1
May Day (Der Erste Mai, Tag der Arbeit) is an ancient festival to welcome the spring weather and to drive away evil spirits. It's a German national holiday. That meant only one thing to Aussie fanciers – hold a show! I had the privilege of judging conformation for the seventh time in Germany. It was a pleasure to see some excellent dogs and note the continuous improvement made by dedicated Aussie breeders.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Puppy Fix Day!
Tuesday, May 2

There's nothing cuter than Aussie puppies! I played with a litter of adorable six-week old babies, chatted with their breeder, and learned more about her breeding program. This litter was sired by BIS BISS AKC Multi Ch.McMatt Blue Graffiti (Garrett) and out of Dt.Ch (VDH), Dt.JCh (VDH), CASD JCh, Club Jug. Sieg. 2015 Cool-Paws Amazing Shooting Star BH, RO-B, RO-1, OB, O1, DNA-VP, CHR (Lara).

I was impressed by the equipment used to expose these puppies to a variety of stimuli. In Germany, dogs are allowed to travel almost everywhere with their owners, including on trains, in restaurants and stores, and in other public places. Introducing puppies to a wide variety of sights, sounds, and footing builds confidence when they are faced with unusual situations. Watch for my next blog post that will show a video of the fun equipment this litter has to play on. It may spark new ideas on how you can enhance your puppy socialization.
Picture
Blue merle female
​
Picture
Red tri female
​
Picture
Red merle female
​
Picture
Red tri male
​
Beethoven in Bonn
After a bit of time to recover from puppy bliss, I was taken on a quick shopping trip to Bonn. Elke and her lovely daughter, Bianca, assisted me in buying chocolate bars and a new piece of luggage to carry them. We took time to appreciate a monument of the famous composer, Ludwig van Beethoven, who was born in Bonn in 1770.
Picture
Bonn, Germany was the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven, who was a tremendously influential composer.
​

Picture
My wonderful Aussie club host, Elke. The Cologne Cathedral is peeking out above her shoulder.
​
Picture
A view of Cologne Cathedral's spires, and the Hohenzollern Bridge, which carries more than 1200 trains daily.
​

Goodbye Germany, Hello Spain!​
​Wednesday, May 3
It was time to leave Germany and head to Spain. Sandra drove me to the train station, hoisted my luggage onto the train, and we said our farewells. My trip back to the Frankfurt airport was speedy and smooth. Miraculously, my cell phone began to work, and I caught my flight to Spain for the next slice of my adventure.


Aussies and Adventures in Europe:  The Journey Begins.

4/7/2017

 
Picture
On April 28, I'll head to Europe. My home base will be on the Mediterranean coast of Spain, and I'll be traveling all over Europe. I'll judge and attend shows, visit Aussie breeders, and videotape and photograph their dogs, whose pedigrees trace back to famous Australian Shepherds in the U.S. I'll also explore the cities I visit and discover the best places to eat and gorgeous sites to see.

Join me on this grand adventure as I share my experiences and photos with you!
Picture
​First stop is Bonn, Germany, where I'll judge an Aussie Specialty. After the show I'll play with a litter of puppies sired by BIS BISS Multi CH McMatt Blue Graffiti "Garrett."​ The litter will be five weeks old, and you know there's nothing cuter than baby Aussies at that age! I'll capture them on video so you can enjoy them too!
Picture
​Next stop is Barcelona, Spain. There I'll meet “Garrett,” take photos and videos of him, and have a chance to talk to his owner, Cristina Freixes. She's the driving force who is introducing Aussies to her country, and her dogs have been very successful in the show ring. 
Picture
After photographing Cristina's lovely dogs, I'll head into downtown Barcelona to enjoy sights in the city and eat delicious local fare at the charming tapas restaurants. Then it's on to Valencia to photograph stunning Moorish architecture, and more exploration of villages along the Mediterranean coastline. 
Picture
My third stop is in Cerilly, France, where I'll judge the French Aussie Club's National Specialty. Following that, I'll travel to the Cote d'Azur (French Riviera) and meet Aussie breeders from that region. Their breeding programs will be fascinating, and I'll document their dogs in photos and videos to share with you. Sailing on the Mediterranean and sampling local wines are on the agenda, too.
Picture
​And there's even more! (This all takes place the first month I'm in Europe.) I'll head to Nice, France, to watch the French National Dog Show. It will be the perfect opportunity for me to be a “ringside judge,” meet and take photos of European Aussies, and chat with Aussie breeders from all over the country.

After this whirlwind of experiences, it will be time to head back to my home in Spain. There will be a lot of photo and video editing to do, Spanish language classes to take, salsa dancing, and enjoying my new life.

My plans include trips to southern Germany, Switzerland, and Italy to see the wonderful sights and get to know Aussie breeders in those countries. Next spring I'll be judging a show in Sydney, Australia, and will explore that country and it's neighbor, New Zealand. Many more countries entice me, so stay tuned as I travel the world!


Follow me on this wonderful journey! 
​ 

      Don't miss a thing! 
      Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.

    YES. Sign me up!
    Picture

    Paula McDermid

    I love Australian Shepherd dogs and travel! Join me as I explore Europe, meet Aussies and their owners, and discover exciting places you'd love to visit.

    I moved to Europe from the U.S. in May 2017 and haven't looked back! My dream is to share with you the exquisite beauty of castles, cathedrals, and communities in the Old World. 

    I hope to inspire you to chase your own dreams. Come and explore with me!


    Categories

    All
    Adventure
    Architecture
    Art
    Auckland
    Australia
    Australian Shepherd
    Barcelona
    France
    Germany
    Holidays
    Moving To Europe
    Netherlands
    New Zealand
    Practical Matters
    Spain
    Tattoo
    Travel
    United Kingdom
    Valencia
    Wine

Site updated 01 March 2023    
ALL CONTENT AND PHOTOS IN THIS BLOG ARE PROTECTED BY OFFICIAL COPYRIGHT FROM THE UNITED STATES COPYRIGHT OFFICE.
​Copyright 2023 © All Rights Reserved. Paula McDermid / Bainbridge Press. www.paula-mcdermid.com. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of material on this website is strictly prohibited without express and written permission from this site’s author/owner. Excerpts may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Paula McDermid and www.paula-mcdermid.com with a link to the original content.  PRIVACY POLICY