Category: Valencia

The Fine Art of Graffiti

1/13/2018

“Graffiti is always about being slightly naughty…It’s a different mindset from painting legally.”
- Glynn Judd, a former train writer.

I grew up in a tiny town where "bad boys" spray painted on the sides of railroad cars and the walls of the grain elevator that sat next to the train tracks. They left scribbles, streaks, and carelessly written words in black and white paint. Defacing public property with graffiti was vandalism, a petty crime, and the graffiti was promptly painted over. I don't know if the boys were ever caught.

In many cities, graffiti artists are fined and jailed. But some communities have developed an "enlightened" viewpoint: they embrace urban art as a form of cultural expression, a tourist attraction, or a tool of political communication.

There's a distinction between "graffiti," which defaces property and contributes nothing, and "urban art," which encourages the viewer to engage positively with the artwork.

Valencia has provided an urban canvas for talented street artists from around the world who have left their beautiful work on its walls. The El Carmen area is particularly rich in urban art, and one of my favorite places to wander with camera in hand. Here are some of my favorite works.

This richly-detailed work was created on the wall of an obscure parking area that I found by accident. Valencia is filled with urban art in hidden corners that was made by talented artists.

Note the dog piddle in the lower left corner. Perhaps a canine comment?

More fist fighting.

Think about the scale. This highly-detailed mural covers two large walls. Exquisite!

Lots of symbolism here. I just don't know how to interpret it.

Urban art is a tool of political communication.

Blanquita (white lady).

Love the humor and retro style of this urban art. There's a woman vacuuming up men, and a man wearing jailhouse stripes hanging out of an upstairs window. This one made me stop, think about the concepts, and smile.

Door of an auto repair shop. Perfect!

Botox anyone?

Notice how just a few areas have been painted, yet you see the dog's head clearly. Brilliant!

In my ad agency days, we would pay big bucks for this style of art.

This one makes me laugh!

What's not to love about an opera singer performing in a paella pan?

Street art in Valencia is imaginative, colorful, thought-provoking and beautifully executed. It's nothing like the graffiti scribbled on the sides of trains from my youth. These works enhance the vibrancy of the city, enriching the experience of locals and visitors alike. Come here and see for yourself!

Click to read My Love Affair with Valencia

Click here to read Even More To Love About Valencia

Here's an excellent article "Is Graffiti a Force for Good or Evil?:
https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2015/jan/07/urban-graffiti-force-good-evil

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Recap of 2017: Incredible Life Change and Adventure

12/21/2017

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Five years ago, if you'd told me I would write two books and move to Europe, I would have laughed at the idea.

I would have replied emphatically, “I'm not a writer!”

“I'd love to live in Europe, but how would that be possible? I have a job here and health insurance. You know how expensive health insurance is!”

I read somewhere that women in their 60s have a burst of creativity. I hoped for it, but didn't see that happening in my life.

Then quite by surprise, my first Unforgettable Aussies book evolved. A few Facebook posts about famous foundation dogs turned into an avalanche of photos and comments from my Facebook friends. Fascinating stuff. Extremely valuable Aussie history. I decided to collect it all and preserve it as book.

And suddenly I was an author. That magical burst of creativity had happened.

Meanwhile, the idea of living in Europe kept playing in my mind. The warm, sunny weather in Spain was appealing. I checked into health insurance. It was surprisingly affordable in Spain. I could rent an apartment for about half of what I paid in the States. Maybe I could afford to live there….

Then, I accepted two judging assignments for May 2017—one in Germany and one in France. Possible travel logistics: I could travel back and forth across the Atlantic twice (ugh!), I could take a month-long unpaid vacation, or hey—maybe I should just move to Europe! Not the logic everyone would use, but it made sense to me!

I decided to make The Move.

Putting my wild idea into action required serious planning. I needed to: 1. Acquire a Spanish residency visa. 2. Sell my house and give away almost everything including my antiques and pottery collection. 3. Figure out logistics of overseas planes, trains, and automobiles.

Obtaining the Spanish visa meant jumping through a LOT of hoops and mountains of paperwork. Everything had to be translated into Castilian Spanish and copied in triplicate. It also required two trips to San Francisco to appear in person at the Spanish Consulate.

It was difficult to sell my beautiful house and give away my antiques and family heirlooms. A lot of things went to my sisters and niece for “safe keeping,” but I doubt I'll ever bring them to Europe or have them again. I let go of everything, said good-bye to my family and friends, and on April 27, I boarded the flight to my next home. My dream of living in Europe was coming true.

Logistics of May 2017: Fly to Germany to judge a show, fly to Spain to register as a resident, fly to France to judge another show, return to Spain. Two weeks later, fly to the Netherlands to cover the judging assignment for a judge who was ill. Return to Spain. Breathe. Set up housekeeping in L'Eliana.

My first eight months have been filled with beauty, fun, excitement, travel, writing and research on the book, and some frustration with trying to function in a foreign language.

I'm very happy to be an expat in Spain!

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2017

Discovering Valencia
The architecture and beauty of this city never cease to amaze me. I LOVE Valencia. For the first time in my life I finally feel like “I'm home.” I discover gorgeous art and scenery almost every place I go. A casual stroll to my doctor's office turned into a memorable outing with my camera when I spotted an ornate fountain, a boulevard decorated with poinsiettas for Christmas, and a historic statue overlooking an old bridge.

Meeting Georgie and Mollie
I saw a woman with a dog in the L'Eliana post office. The dog was obviously a purebred of an English breed. Unusual in Spain. I asked the woman if the dog was a Field Spaniel. The woman spoke English and said the dog was an English Cocker Spaniel. I was invited to coffee, and that day I became fast friends with Georgie and her dog Mollie.

Berlin and Leipzig
The Altes Museum in Berlin was incredible. I spent so much time examining the pottery and sculptures that I'm sure the museum guards thought I was going to steal something. From Berlin I went to Leipzig for my first World Dog Show. My friend and fellow judge Sheila Polk invited me to share a room with her. What fun! We had a great time being lost in the maze of city streets, no thanks to an uncooperative GPS. We also have hair-raising stories to tell about Sheila's lost dog and lost luggage. (Both were eventually retrieved.)

Learning the Spanish language
Ok, so I probably don't study enough. But I love the challenge of being immersed in Spanish culture and being able to function (sort of) in a new language. When my vocabulary fails me, there's always Google Translate. Me gusta hablar español.

Navigating the Metro system
Definitely an important milestone in my first year here. What I've learned: always leave plenty of extra time in case I get lost. Because I do. Frequently. Remember, all those signs are in Spanish.

Completing Volume II of Unforgettable Aussies
Absolutely the most important highlight of 2017! After hundreds of hours of research and writing, I released the second book in the series. My love for the Australian Shepherd breed continues to motivate me to record its history. As a wonderful bonus, I've made many new friends who sent photos of their dogs to be included in this volume.

As 2017 comes to a close, I look forward to an equally memorable 2018. Already in the works are trips to Australia, Italy, Germany, and the UK. I'll be unveiling my brand new, hands-on Aussie workshop, and you'll have to stay tuned to learn about other exciting happenings.

My wish for you in 2018 is to be inspired to live your life to the fullest! Happy Holidays to my friends around the world!

Paula

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Alicante. A Spanish City of Contrasts.

12/11/2017

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When still in the U.S., planning my escape to Europe, I pinpointed three Spanish cities to consider as places to live. They were Barcelona, Valencia, and Alicante. All three were nestled along the Mediterranean coast with its abundant sunshine and mild winters. All three offered cultural experiences, were graced with historic architecture, and possessed modern airports.

My flight to Europe landed in Barcelona, so that was the city I explored first. It was a fascinating metropolis with much to offer, but it didn't feel like “home.”

Barcelona's gorgeous cityscape.

Then I took the train to Valencia. When I disembarked at the magnificent Estació del Nord (North train station) I immediately fell in love with the city. I never made it to Alicante.

Valencia's Estació del Nord train station.

I felt I owed it to myself to at least visit Alicante to see if I had missed out on something special. A friend had entered her Aussies in a dog show in that city, and that was the nudge I needed to make the trip.
I arrived by train several days before the dog show so I'd have time to explore and take photos of the city. Alicante's train station is thoroughly modern, in contrast to Valencia's Estació del Nord.

Alicante's railway station.

I walked from the train station to my AirBnB apartment, following Google Maps on my phone. Because I'm directionally impaired even with a map, I took a wrong turn and found myself on San Francisco Street, which is also known as “Mushroom Street.”

I was quite surprised by San Francisco Street's Alice-in-Wonderland atmosphere in this very Spanish town. Actually, I enjoyed it so much I wandered back through it two more times during my stay.

In contrast to the modern, whimsical theme of San Francisco Street, a few blocks away was the richly carved entrance to the Edificio Caturla.

There's much about Alicante that reflects its history, which dates back thousands of years. What impressed me most were the contrasts between old and new, rich and poor, traditional Spain and modern Spain.

Santa Barbara Castle watches over Alicante from the top of Benacantil Mountain, 166 meters (545 feet) above sea level.

Construction of the city's ancient castle began in the 9th century. Its base is surrounded by glittering new offices, apartment buildings, and restaurants.

In summer, Alicante transforms from a quiet Spanish town into a sunny playground for thousands of Spanish, British, Germans, and Russians on holiday. The Explanada de España (esplanade or prominade of Spain) parallels the port and is a favorite place for strolling.

I loved the gorgeous Explanada de España. It's lined on both sides with rows of palm trees and the walkway is decorated with 6½ million marble tiles that create a wave effect. Brilliant design!

Shopping fun on the Explanade at open-air stalls.

The Explanade is lined with restaurants and shops on one side and the marina on the opposite side.

If you're in the market for a new sailboat or yacht, you might find one here. Sailing buffs can also take a trip through history at the Volvo Ocean Race Museum.

Facing the marina are buildings old and new that stand shoulder-to-shoulder.

The modern four-star Gran Sol Hotel and Restaurant overlooks Alicante's marina.

Right next door to the Gran Sol Hotel is the elegant, historic Edeficio Carbonella.

After strolling up and down the Explanade, I headed through an archway that took me back in time to the Old Town.

Archway connecting modern Alicante with its Old Town.

As soon as I reached the Old Town side of the archway, I was greeted by the splendid Casa Consistorial (city council building) on Plaza Santísima Faz. The Consistorial is a baroque palace that was constructed between 1696 – 1780. I found the doors particularly beautiful.

Gorgeous doorway to the Casa Consistorial. When I was in Art School I was not a fan of Baroque architecture. I am now!

Massive main entrance to the Casa Consistorial.

Door handle and lock plate details. The face of the door was some type of metal that had a “quilted” texture.

I continued walking into the Old Town, up cobblestone streets, passing by outdoor cafes and small shops in narrow alleys.

I peeked into this charming historic hotel on a side street of Alicante.

I turned off my Google Maps app and wandered. I found my self in the really old Old Town.

Ancient stone steps led up to tiny homes clinging to a hillside. Loved the Spanish flag proudly displayed!

There were several small groups of people trudging up a hill on a dusty road. I followed them, thinking they might lead me to something interesting. Oh yes! They did!

The entire trip to Alicante was worth it just to see the exquisite Basílica de Santa Maria.

I become giddy with excitement when I see incredible beauty like this. Breathtaking! Note: Finding a scene as beautiful as this is called a “Photographic Emergency.” I must, I repeat MUST, stop and take photos.

Dusk was settling in as I trundled back down the hill to my AirBnB apartment, which was right in the middle of Old Town.

My AirBnB apartment in Alicante was an eclectic blend of rustic and modern. It was perfectly situated in the Old Town, close to everything. Loved it!

Saturday morning arrived and I was up and out the door to the dog show. I cheered as my friend showed her Aussies, took photos of unusual breeds, and sampled local cuisine at food stands—but that's another blog post.
After the show Sunday, I caught the train back home to Valencia. I enjoyed visiting Alicante, and now I know I made the perfect choice of cities in which to live.

Gratuitous selfie taken while waiting for the train home. Hey! I didn't know all the writing would be backwards!

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Even More to Love about Valencia

9/4/2017

When I travel, I want to see beauty: expressive artwork, sublime landscapes, glorious architecture. I explored Valencia and was so charmed by its blend of art and architecture that I decided to make it my home.

I wast astonished at the sheer number of handsome buildings that grace the city. Nearly every block has a facade that's photo-worthy. Many of the structures have historical significance and are still in use today.

I love the mash-up of architectural styles that are incorporated into many of the buildings. Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical all play nicely together. They represent artistic influences that spread across Europe and were interpreted by Spanish architects.

Moorish and Byzantine influences can also be seen in this facade. I'd find it very difficult to classify this building as any particular architectural style. That's what makes it so interesting. And look at all the detail! A very creative architect came up with this plan.

No detail was left to chance. A simple streetlight is a work of art. I'm in awe of the ironwork and have no idea how this was made, but I love it! This type of beautiful detail is everywhere in Valencia's downtown district.

Dramatic winged archers, a steam locomotive, and a wooden ship adorn this clock tower. There's a message here.... I waited 20 minutes for a city bus to get out of the way so I could take this shot. Such a fascinating building!

Another clock tower with ornate detail, sans archers. This structure is almost fanciful in design -- It reminds me of a wedding cake with columns holding up the layers.

Looking for more buildings to photograph, I strolled down the street, where I enjoyed the brilliant colors of outdoor flower markets.

When I heard the clip-clop of hooves, I turned around and saw mounted police on matching horses. As a horse lover, it makes my heart go pitty-pat to see equine in the big city.

Walking past an old building near the Central Market, this snail motif stopped me in my tracks. I marveled at the attention to detail and careful workmanship.

Sometimes just looking up can be a delightful surprise. The rosy-colored stucco wall was accented by a window balcony with a black iron railing. But the designer went even farther by adding interesting detail under the balcony and a motif on the front of the railing. The window frames are also rich with detail.

I'd had an exciting day of shooting and was ready for dinner. As I walked toward the restaurant, I passed a prosthesis shop which apparently uses this wooden leg as their advertising. My friend said she knew a guy with a wooden leg named Steve. I asked her, "What's the name of the other leg?" <groan>

La Tagliatella. A scrumptious Italian dinner and lovely glass of wine in the magnificent Spanish city of Valencia. Perfecto!

Click to read My Love Affair with Valencia

Click to read Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

8/21/2017

Write this on your “Must Do” list when you visit Valencia: Shop the Mercado Central (Central Market). The building itself is a gorgeous art nouveau showpiece worth seeing, but it also houses one of the largest public markets in Europe. It's like your local farmers market on steroids – inside a palace.

The grand entrance to the Central Market welcomes tourists from around the world.

The market covers an area of over 8,000 square meters (86,111 square feet). For comparison, a U.S. football field is 57,600 square feet including the end zones.

In the center of the magnificent structure is an intricate stained glass dome depicting the richness of Valencia’s fruit. The market is a symbol of the diversity of this region which produces internationally renowned fruits and vegetables.

The market is a gastronomic heaven with nearly a thousand market stalls offering fresh meats, fruit, vegetables, seafood, cheeses, baked goods, olives, and lots of wine. There’s even a snail stand and a stand dedicated to the spice saffron (signature spice in paella). You can also buy funky souvenirs and rather unusual snacks.

The Market is divided into sections for different produce. In the fish market, everything fishy is colorfully displayed on crushed ice. You can find all sorts of seafood including calamares (squid rings), sépias (cuttlefish), pulpo (squid tentacles), and – my personal favorite – shellfish of all types and sizes. You can even buy live eels. (Terrified Emoji here.)

If you're in the mood to try something unusual, take a look at the percebes. They are barnacles that look like tiny severed legs with the hoof attached. They are supposed to be delicious, but I think the texture would be too weird for me to handle. Especially the crunchy hoof part. (Another terrified Emoji here.)

Next stop is the cured ham section. Mind you, this is not one stand. This is an entire section of stands offering the finest hams. The Spanish take their jamón (ham) very seriously and you can find many types and qualities. Jamón ibérico is the celebrated ham made from Black Iberian pigs who graze on acorns. This specialty can cost you over €150/kilo ($68/lb). For the curious: yes, it does taste like acorns, in a good way.

In need of something to sustain you through the rest of your exploration of the Market? Try the gazpacho-to-go! This delight takes fast food to a whole new level. Or, if you prefer, you can have tapas with a nice glass of wine at the Central Bar.

Next stop: Fruits and Vegetables section. So many choices! So little time! You can pick up a glass of fresh-squeezed Valencia orange juice at one of many fruit stands. The flavor is out-of-this-world! Grab some fresh apples to snack on later, too.

Many of the beautiful, ripe fruit and vegetables are seasonal and locally grown. They are on the menus of restaurants across the city. Your farmers market back home would be jealous if it knew you were here.

Does cooking paella sound like fun to you? Indulge yourself with the perfect paella pan! The selection here boggles the mind. Sizes and styles to suit the most discerning taste.

Sometimes you need to take home a bit of memorabilia from your trip, or you might be looking for that perfect white-elephant gift for your brother's birthday. The Central Market is sure to have what you're looking for. I couldn't resist the Gaudi-inspired spoon rest as the perfect accent to my kitchen. A couple of fancy wine bottle stoppers also came home with me. Refrigerator magnets, handsome tiles, you-name-it. There are plenty of fun choices!

You don't want to miss Valencia's Central Market. It's open Monday – Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Closed Sundays. BYOB (bring your own bag) and have a shopping extravaganza!

Click here to read Everyday Street Scenes in Barcelona

My Love Affair with Valencia.

8/14/2017

The train station in my tiny hometown in Estados Unidos (United States) was ancient, dark, and dusty. The floorboards squeaked. Uncomfortable wood benches flanked the entrance. In Alemania (Germany), the train stations I'd been through were of modern industrial design, spare, and efficient. In total contrast, when I stepped off the train and into the station in Valencia, Spain, I was startled by its beauty. Welcome to Valencia!

The majestic Estació del Nord (North Train Station) celebrates Valencia oranges. I was amazed when I discovered its handsome façade is decorated with glazed tiles that depict oranges. Mosaics inside the station also tell the story of oranges.

Yes, Valencia oranges really do grow here. For centuries the fruit has been tremendously important to the economy. There's even a cocktail celebrating oranges; Agua de Valencia (water of Valencia) is a delightful concoction of orange juice, cava, vodka, and gin. It's perfect after lunch, served chilled in a shot glass.

Fun fact: Along with oranges, Valencia is a prime rice growing area! Rice has been grown for over 1000 years on the low-lying land near the coast. Paella (pah-aye-ah) is the rice-based signature dish of Valencia. It's a free-style combo of rice, meat and/or seafood, with a few vegetables tossed in for a good measure. It's seasoned with saffron which gives the rice a lovely golden hue.

Tantalizing seafood paella I helped make during a cooking class. Write “cooking class” on your Must Do list when you visit Spain.

Speaking of food, the Mercado Central (Central Market), a beautiful art nouveau showpiece, is one of the largest public markets in Europe. Inside, a thousand market stalls are piled high with the freshest and finest meats, fruit, vegetables, and seafood. You can also grab souvenirs and snacks. Try the barnacles washed down with gazpacho-to-go! The Central Market is so fascinating that it will have its own post on this blog. Watch for it!

Right next door to the Central Market is Església de Sant Joan del Mercat. I dare you to say that fast three times. It's the Church of St. John of the Market. The ornate clock tower is flanked by a matched pair of St. Johns. The rather unusual weather vane on top of the façade is known as the Bird of St. John. I was stunned by the incredible detail covering every surface of the building.

Valencia's commercial prosperity in the 15th century spurred the construction of Llotja de la Seda (Silk Exchange building), to house commercial transactions and a marine merchant tribunal. The name of the magnificent la Llotja reflects the importance of the city's silk industry.

Another fun fact: In the past, if a merchant couldn't meet his financial obligations, the Trading Market would remove one leg of the bench he used. The bench was called a banco rota (broken bench), which later led to the English word "bankrupt."

The Silk Exchange's immense Sala de Contratación (Contract Hall) was the room where where merchants negotiated contracts. The intricate marble floor and awe-inspiring spiral pillars were total eye-candy for me.

Another area of the Silk Exchange, Consulado del Mar (Consulate of the Sea), was where the Trade Court met to solve maritime trade issues. The room is embellished with an intricately carved wood ceiling and massive doors. It occurred to me that the gorgeous tile floor would be a spectacular place to dance!

A few blocks to the northwest are the imposing medieval Torres de Quart (Towers of Quart). They were constructed between 1441 and 1460 as defensive gates for the city and were built of natural stone from quarries near Valencia. I was impressed by the cannonball damage sustained during the siege of the city by France in 1808. These towers withstood a ferocious pounding!

I've taken you around just a few blocks and we'll circle back to the majestic Estació del Nord. Beautiful by day. Gorgeous by night. There's so much more to see in Valencia! I can't wait to share more posts about this exquisite city.

Click here for a quick link to two maps that highlight the area we just explored. Check them out, then do yourself a favor and come to Valencia!

Click here to read Even More To Love About Valencia

The Fine Art of Graffiti

Recap of 2017: Incredible Life Change and Adventure

Alicante. A Spanish City of Contrasts.

Even More to Love about Valencia

Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

My Love Affair with Valencia.

Don't miss a thing!
Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.

Paula McDermid

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The Fine Art of Graffiti

Recap of 2017: Incredible Life Change and Adventure

Alicante. A Spanish City of Contrasts.

Even More to Love about Valencia

Shop 'til You Drop: Valencia's Central Market

My Love Affair with Valencia.

Don't miss a thing! Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.

Paula McDermid

Categories

Don't miss a thing!
Pop your email in the box below and I'll let you know once a month about my fun new posts.